A true sense of enthusiasm about fashion was palpable during Milan/Paris menswear ss12 collections.
The catwalks were awash with colour and prints, with the atmosphere one of true summer fun in the sun. Innovative materials and the reinterpretation of traditional ones, such as the net processing on leather, was an overarching trend. What was most significant however were the more architectural innovations and the reworking of traditional tailoring and proportions, which together bring to light a new fashion for ss12.
Unsurprisingly, a true sense of Mediterranean style with relaxed beach ready outfits peppered the catwalks, making ss12 overall a very commercial season. On the more fashion forward side of the spectrum, leather and suede were shown as an alternative to knitwear as a protection from that summer breeze.
Linen and cotton sand-hued separates graced the Milan/Paris catwalks lending the season an easy chic mood. A perfect accompaniment to that Mediterranean tan, summer neutrals are all the rage.
Reminiscent of the crystalline Mediterranean waters, blue is the colour for ss 12. From navy to azur passing by lapis and indigo the whole tonal spectrum of blue was present on the Milan/Paris catwalks. Teamed with orange or yellow, blue can make a real statement. Paired with white, the marina chic look is complete.
Moving forward from the very masculine blue, other brights lit up the catwalks in Milan/Paris. Parrot greens, oranges and highlighter yellow contrasted with warm hues of berry. The trend is easy to wear: interpret it with knitwear or even leather, while for the more daring a few tailored suits in bright fluo pink colour made an appearance on the ss12 catwalks.
In keeping with the laid-back feel of the season, soft tailoring is the only way to sport sartorial excellence for ss 12. Soft silhouettes, unlined jackets and low- rise trousers are perfect to keep cool in the summer heat. For this casual/formal hybrid in linen, washed cotton and soft denim, the more crumpled the better.
in the same way as in womenswear, tailoring has undergone a
transformation in recent seasons. Traditional proportions, especially in classic menswear, have been turned on their heads and have resulted in shorter blazers or trousers with dropped crotches.
Summer tartans and checks provide an alternative to the louder tropical prints for ss12. Available in the subtle hues of neutrals, eye popping brights or in a monochrome palette, checks adorn lightweight overcoats, shirts and suits galore.
See through mesh knitwear seems to be man’s alternative to lace for women in ss’12. Sexy yet sophisticated, these knits are the perfect way to show some flesh and keep cool in the summer heat. Why not embrace the trend further and move onto netwear? In Dolce & Gabbana’s ss’12 collection the net is presented in different sizes, colours and materials and used either transparent or lined for jackets, trousers, shorts, T-shirts, bomber jackets, tracksuits and sweaters.
Continuing with the new proportions trend, ss12 catwalks in Milan/Paris were stomped by models in ankle cropped trousers. Reminiscent of the 1950s mod subculture these tapered pants are perfect for an alternative summer formal look.
The Harrington jacket is the new biker for ss12. Reworked in luxurious croc or lasered into mesh effect, wear it in a wide a variety of hues from lush cognac to deep blue.
Soft and tactile suede made a real statement on the Milan/Paris ss12 catwalks. Offered in understated neutrals or soft hued colours, suede jackets really honed in on the relaxed feel to the season’s fashion.
As a variation to structured tailoring the hybrid between jacket and shirt was all over the Milan/Paris catwalks. This is one of the hottest items for ss12 and is sure to be a commercial success.
The all over printed tops are a perfect bridge between the t shirt and casual shirt in ss12. The jersey versions with collars are an up to the minute alternative to the classic polo shirt. The bolder the print the better.
Continuing on ss11’s trend of the coloured trousers, next year casual pants will be bright and brash. Pictorial scarf prints, over exaggerated stripes and wallpaper florals will be working up a gaudy storm next summer.
Sportswear is an ever present trend in summer seasons, but for ss12 the Milan/ Paris catwalks were teeming with sportswear references. Technical fabrics, zips,multi pocketed blouson jackets are a must have. Choose a bright colour version to catch two trends with one look.
Styled by Yuri Ahn.
Special collaboration with Valentina Zannoni
Fashion show Photo by: Luca Cannonieri and Michele Morosi