Blame it on the girls or on the boys, next winter is about opting for the right appeal: masculine or feminine, this is the question.
Indeed, the first striking common characteristic of the collections showed in New York, London, Milan and Paris is the very defined silhouette. Either ultra feminine and sexy or very much mannish, how come? After seasons of general cool confusion it seems hot to get back to the two real options. Beyond this gender game, many runways were popped up with vibrant hues to say that we should see next winter in colour. It will be cool to flash out in the cold so get your pantone list ready because the choice is tricky. A lot is to pick from without mentioning that we will be furry edgy with some hemlines that will have their momentum. The fur or the feathers to close outfits and say happy days to a winter that definitely will be fashion friendly.
Power dressing is back and has not left its glamorous appeal backstage. From the
cap to the cavalière boots, designers have displayed the men codes with
subtlety. New season, new order, the walk is straight and if the suit is strong
its version is mini. Mini skirt with matching jacket over leggings was a
popular looked interpreted in various ways and in many colour codes. As to say
that the smoking for her made its come back would be a bit over the top, as it
has never left really the fashion scene. The newness is more to be found in
fabrics and combinations. The tuxedo got bigger at the top with oversized jacket
to wear with… Well, nothing
on White? No, this is so last season. This time around you can wear your
favourite bold colour from top to bottom and add some calligraphy. Alphabet
print did do the Milan Fashion Week talk thanks to D&G and was followed by
monocolour looks where even accessories where matching.
Get your Stabilo Boss pens to match your look of the day, funky and quirky, the proposal is still chic, but edgy chic.As well under the radar, some classic colours combined in a new way and fall tones to dress up a lady that knows what it means to be chic. She will match the autumnal leaves and lunch in mustard yellow, bottle green and/or burgundy red.Cut the jacket! A sartorial rebellion is on its way. The hemline is at the waist and get along with a cap, a trilby or a Fedora. Cropped are the pants as well, did the designers suffer from a shortage in their fabric supply? Not really, as the other possibility is the maxi wide-cut pants. So yes it is shrunk or maxi, in a word the message has to be clear and the introduction has to match the conclusion.Cropped it all? Again the options are of two. Either you save on the fabric or you choose the tunic. Combine the flare trousers (yes, they are back) for seventies inspired but only inspired look. You are not meant to play a remake of Saturday Night Fever, it is just about the spirit and the mood. To illustrate this, the checked tweeds and the soft flannels were selected and cut to elongate a boyish silhouette that at the end is extremely feminine. Dress to suggest and you will impress…Drop the sleeves and strike a pose. Next winter we will loose some fabric to challenge the cold. Sleeveless shirts are perfect for a transitional wardrobe update and shows that fashion houses have understood our dilemma when comes fall. Underdressed or overdressed should no longer be our primary concern as we will have the formula to wear just what’s right when summer ends and winter is about to arrive. Gone are the sleeves on fur gilets, light are the mid-season coats, cropped are the blazers, designers took shortcuts to tell their winter story.Winter 2012 – Destination: everywhere – Code: Cape Coat
Easy, the 30’s women outwear is still full on and has increased in momentum as it can be found in almost any colours (at least the trendy ones depicted above) and in any length. Again cropped or endless, you choose. Casual, in its poncho versions, it is perfect for the sweet little 60’s lovers.Luxury is still trendy, and that is good news. To keep us warm next winter we will be crawling in soft big parkas with fur details. Sophistication and comfort, the ideal combination for businesswomen that keep going from morning to evening and from Monday to Sunday.Maxi skirts were well represented on the catwalks, very seventies like they nevertheless have a modern look because new to our closet and not seen for a while on the streets. To sport fully the new sliding trend, match the maxi skirt with a sleeveless fur gilet that should already be written on your wish list if not highlighted in red.
A bit romantic but not demure, the longer the better. Skimming the floor on top of the heels is the attitude to adopt. As for the silhouette, a maxi skirt is always flattering so definitely a must.It is party time at least according to the catwalk and how we imagine the winter shopfloor to look like as soon as we will hit September on the calendar. Sequins, beads, they are all invited to get you noticed in the shadow of the twilight. Baroque inspired, but certainly not rococo, dresses are embellished and just enough. Dress them down with cool derby flats for a daywear that celebrates everyday glamour. The shapes are very much taken from the twenties; the decade of the cabaret shows … Do you like it hot? Boo boo bee doo, doo!Let’s talk about prints now. Essential next season, they are colourful but strictly geometric. Tartan checks that call red, green and even purple to give a serious signal: Attention, please… It is about to happening here and now”. So get your old school print out for a lesson of mix and match in perfect harmony with the colour code previously defined.
Add to this some references to art such as the so-called “Mondrian" lines or some chevron updated versions that say "hi" to the sixties but just “Hi!”.Soft and smooth, when comes the cool we need to be cosy and to roll in nice clothes. Fur is the first thing that comes to mind and next winter is no exception. But be ready for a remix. Mongolian and astrakhan are still on the guest list but they come hand in hand with fake fur. No limits, no forbidden rule, you are totally free as long as you keep the colours united.Not a full-on-fur fan, you can get on with the hairy trend by adopting the fur trims formula. And because the edge is on the trims why not go for a printed effect or a tie-dye version of mink or fox. Fake or real, again, you choose.About to close the winter 2012 trend chapter, we have to mention the role lace is about to play in less than 6 months in our wardrobe. Still out of the boudoir, designers kept the aristocratic fine fabric outside. Another round of transparencies and sheer effects to dress up when the sun goes down.
Styled by Yuri Ahn.
Text by Delphine Hervieu.
Source: Dolce&Gabbana, D&G
Image Credits : Luca Cannonieri and Michele Morosi.