Spring Summer 12 looked back at simpler times, when women were women, men were men and fashion was straight to the point.
Retro inspired fashion has been a trend on the up in recent seasons, and it has reached its climax with SS12. The cinched waists and flowing skirts of the Fifties or the cleaner A lines typical of the Sixties bubbled to the surface of a generally tame fashion month. The economic and poltical context has in a way influenced the collections, bringing to the fore very wearable fashion, with an emphasis on day wear.
In general, the colour palette is a tame one, consisting of innocent pastels and light ice cream colours. For those wishing to make a statement, gone are the days of colour blocking, opt for prints instead. The fabrics too, mirrored the retro looks from the fifties with flowing organza, soft silk, and prim and proper cotton.
The particular reference to the Fifties silhouettes, however, add that touch of glamour that can bring you from day to evening without much breaking into a sweat. The general mood of the collections brings back memories of simpler times, where women graced the pavement in proper attire, exuding sensuality and femininity through their aura, and not through their fashion statements.
The 1950s were centred on innovation, as the decade went by, the post war blues gave way to the unstoppable feeling of reconstruction and innovation. From a fashion viewpoint, Christian Dior’s new look was at the centre of feminine fashion. The simple concept of a cinched waist and a full skirt underneath was pure genius. 70 years later, and it still works. For Spring Summer the ladylike silhouette and dimension are undisputed protagonists.
The clean graphic lines of Sixties are a valid alterative for the highly charged silhouettes of the 1950s. The simple A line skirts and dresses are a strong trend. The highly decorated fabrics lend texture and depth to beautifully simple silhouettes.
The key looks confirmed for the sportswear in Spring Summer 12 are minimal and streamlined. The essence is resort chic, a nod to the days of a vintage Capri where the likes of Jackie O graced the island, and the fashion set.
The new colour direction for Spring Summer 12 is light pastels. Creamy ice cream, or clean candy colours are inspired by a definitely Fifties palette. Baby pink, sky blue, lemon yellow and mint green add an unexpected charm and innocence to the very grown up silhouettes.
Forget colour blocking, next summer is all about prints- in all shapes and sizes. From horticultural to heraldic the print takes centre stage this season.
He loves me, he loves me not. Daisies are the new floral print for ss12. The delicate petals and simple colours of the daisy are emblematic of the mood of the season. The daisy is omnipresent, as an appliqué, in a maxi print or mixed with other flowers (and veggies too).
Gym alert! Start doing your crunches as the cropped top has made an appearance for next summer. Either as a fully-fledged bra or more like a simple camisole, Spring Summer 12 is all about the waist. Match to full skirts for a 1950s feel in vivid colours to balance the silhouette.
Utility is also an underlying trend for Spring Summer 12. The idea that a beautiful skirt can be whipped up out of a square of material is fanciful yet real - the sarong skirt is born.
The one piece, item of desire and mystery in the1950s, as underwear. For Spring Summer12, the one piece has been elevated and has received treatments, such as embellishments, usually reserved to eveningwear.
Spring Summer 12 sees an evolution of the current lace trend. Next summer’s materials are more structured, in keeping with the leading silhouettes of the season. The finish is more artisanal, more akin to couture.
The couture references in the season couldn’t be stronger than hand made appliqué details. From flowers to birds, 3d details were a key for Spring Summer 12.
Sheer pieces are de rigueur in a season inspired by femininity. For 2012 the transparent feel is concentrated on the upper half of the body. As a nod to modernity, these transparencies are re-invented in a somewhat “futuristic” spirit.
Styled by: Yuri Ahn
Writte by: Valentina Zannoni
Fashion show Photo by: Luca Cannonieri and Michele Morosi