Spring Summer 12 looked back at simpler times, when women were women, men were men and fashion was straight to the point.
Retro inspired fashion has been a trend on the up in recent seasons, and it has reached its climax with SS12. The cinched waists and flowing skirts of the Fifties or the cleaner A lines typical of the Sixties bubbled to the surface of a generally tame fashion month. The economic and poltical context has in a way influenced the collections, bringing to the fore very wearable fashion, with an emphasis on day wear.
In general, the colour palette is a tame one, consisting of innocent pastels and light ice cream colours. For those wishing to make a statement, gone are the days of colour blocking, opt for prints instead. The fabrics too, mirrored the retro looks from the fifties with flowing organza, soft silk, and prim and proper cotton.
The particular reference to the Fifties silhouettes, however, add that touch of glamour that can bring you from day to evening without much breaking into a sweat. The general mood of the collections brings back memories of simpler times, where women graced the pavement in proper attire, exuding sensuality and femininity through their aura, and not through their fashion statements.
The
1950s were centred on innovation, as the decade went by, the post war blues gave
way to the unstoppable feeling of reconstruction and innovation. From a fashion
viewpoint, Christian Dior’s new look was at the centre of feminine fashion. The
simple concept of a cinched waist and a full skirt underneath was pure genius.
70 years later, and it still works. For Spring Summer the ladylike silhouette
and dimension are undisputed protagonists.
The
clean graphic lines of Sixties are a valid alterative for the highly charged
silhouettes of the 1950s. The simple A line skirts and dresses are a strong
trend. The highly decorated fabrics lend texture and depth to beautifully simple
silhouettes.
The
key looks confirmed for the sportswear in Spring Summer 12 are minimal and
streamlined. The essence is resort chic, a nod to the days of a vintage Capri
where the likes of Jackie O graced the island, and the fashion set.
The
new colour direction for Spring Summer 12 is light pastels. Creamy ice cream, or
clean candy colours are inspired by a definitely Fifties palette. Baby pink, sky
blue, lemon yellow and mint green add an unexpected charm and innocence to the
very grown up silhouettes.
Forget
colour blocking, next summer is all about prints- in all shapes and sizes. From
horticultural to heraldic the print takes centre stage this season.
He
loves me, he loves me not. Daisies are the new floral print for ss12. The
delicate petals and simple colours of the daisy are emblematic of the mood of
the season. The daisy is omnipresent, as an appliqué, in a maxi print or mixed
with other flowers (and veggies too).
Gym
alert! Start doing your crunches as the cropped top has made an appearance for
next summer. Either as a fully-fledged bra or more like a simple camisole,
Spring Summer 12 is all about the waist. Match to full skirts for a 1950s feel
in vivid colours to balance the silhouette.
Utility
is also an underlying trend for Spring Summer 12. The idea that a beautiful
skirt can be whipped up out of a square of material is fanciful yet real - the
sarong skirt is born.
The
one piece, item of desire and mystery in the1950s, as underwear. For Spring
Summer12, the one piece has been elevated and has received treatments, such as
embellishments, usually reserved to eveningwear.
Spring
Summer 12 sees an evolution of the current lace trend. Next summer’s materials
are more structured, in keeping with the leading silhouettes of the season. The
finish is more artisanal, more akin to couture.
The
couture references in the season couldn’t be stronger than hand made appliqué
details. From flowers to birds, 3d details were a key for Spring Summer 12.
Sheer
pieces are de rigueur in a season inspired by femininity. For 2012 the
transparent feel is concentrated on the upper half of the body. As a nod to
modernity, these transparencies are re-invented in a somewhat “futuristic”
spirit.
Styled by: Yuri Ahn
Writte by: Valentina Zannoni
Fashion show Photo by: Luca Cannonieri and Michele Morosi
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