AW10/11 Haute Couture, a fashion candy for happy few…

Haute Couture is certainly a treat but last week in Paris, megabrands and young designers tried a downscaled approach. If understated chic prevailed, some old fashion houses continued to play their dramatic opulent clothing cards.

Giorgio Armani Privé Couture AW10

Brown, the new black?
Surprisingly enough black did not get the usual attention from couture designers for next autumn winter. Traditionally (couture is all about tradition as we know), made-to-measure proposals for cold seasons tend to privilege black and dark tones but for this time around the brown hue was celebrated in various ways teamed up with some bloody red, bright pinks and greens. In a word, think rich colour palettes for a wealthy clientele that has shrunk with the years. If Couture is not as opulent as it used to be, the technical know-how and search of modern perfection seems to still be the focus. Follow Armani who swapped his classic beige for camel, choco, coffee shades: an amber fashion tale encapsulated in a brooch.

Elie Saab AW10 Couture

Skeleton
A body commemoration: Stand straight; your spine is your guide for a perfect feminine glamorous pose. Along the spine, Elie Saab’s signature mermaid dresses are to be continued for next winter’s cold red carpets. For cocktail and end of the year galas stay along the Givenchy lines and get closer to Frida Kahlo who whispers her thoughts and obsessions about religion, human anatomy and sensuality. Still expressing his gothic inclinations, Roberto Tisci turn to chocolate for a dark take on a winter wardrobe. “A romantic way to see death “ are Tisci ‘s words, the designer surely set the tone for what should be an intense season.

Chanel AW10 Couture

New proportions
King Karl has challenged the couture scene with new proportions, a new take on hemlines with a starification of anything that seems midi length. The Flexible Body is the winter Chanel Couture theme with short jackets that stop at the rib cage and underline a high waist preference for bottom garments. Is it the return of the peplum or just a nod to the twenties when short was “in” for evening dressing?
Whatever it is, Baby Dolls are back at Valentino; is it a short or a long story? The future will tell.

Valentino AW10 Couture

Jean Paul Gaultier AW10 Couture

Lingerie inspired
“Lingerie out” has been in for sometime now, it seems that it is now having its Couture momentum at least at the Jean Paul Gaultier salon. Forget the intimacy of a boudoir and express your femininity in a luxurious way on a daily basis. Paris’ enfant terrible gives us an ultimate lesson of French savoir –faire, looking back to what made his fame; the fashion potion for next winter is for cabaret lovers and Dita Von Teese fans.

Dior AW10 Couture

Floral for winter
A jardin d’hiver to warm up cold feet and give some glow to winter silhouettes. Colour your evening and event looks with some bright floral frocks and gowns. Opulent tulip skirts, bustier puffy gowns are Dior’s way to enter autumn in style. More than a statement it is a manifesto. If Haute Couture is tagged as expensive, John Galliano surely justifies the numbers with some extra-ordinary dresses that should make you feel like Cinderella. A bouquet of flamboyance and extravagance that can only be signed John Galliano. The British designer seems to be really free to express his fantasy when the Couture fashion week arrives. If the past week was short in eccentricity, John was here to remind us what Haute Couture is really about…