A great of fashion photography expired in a tragic accident in Hollywood in January 2004, and the fashion world could not but be touched by the loss of this visionary artist: Helmut Newton. Dolce&Gabbana chose to pay homage to Newton’s genius in a Seventies inspired collection that recreated the sort of images which made his shots so iconic.
The Fall Winter 2005 collection was more than just inspired by the Seventies, it was inspired by the particular images shot by Helmut Newton in that decade. Strong, almost masculine women were the protagonists of the German photographer, their interplay and ambiguous role reversal were coherent with many elements explored by Dolce&Gabbana themselves.
Tailoring was a very strong element of the collection, Newton’s fashion photography from the seventies often portrayed androgynous women in razor sharp suits which emanated a magnetic sexual appeal. These elements akin to Dolce&Gabbana’s style, and were emphasized in the FW05. Lace was mixed to masculine tweeds to further illustrate the achieved masculine vs feminine appeal.
Newton’s heyday in the Seventies saw him work a lot with Yves Saint Laurent, and it was inevitable, that some pieces in the collection were a tribute to another great, departed master of fashion. Messers Dolce&Gabbana however could not but inject a hint of their own style in those items.
Newton’s restrained opulence and attention to detail in his photography were reflected in the collection. Fine details, chantilly lace, fur and intricate jewellery complete the collection. While the sexual power which emanates from his shots were embodied in the stilettos, lingerie and figure hugging silhouettes of the FW05 collection.
The advertisement campaign of course was a complete tribute to Helmut Newton’s work. Stella Tennant and Hannelore, beautiful, strong and somewhat androgynous fronted a campaign with strong Newton-esque signals. The setting, a disused hotel on Wall Street, reflected Newton’s favourite subject: an intimate, secret and possibly illicit affair.
Styled by: Yuri Ahn
Written by: Valentina Zannoni