To the sound of Domenico Modugno’s “Meraviglioso” contemporary sun kissed maidens in vintage style dresses waltzed down the catwalk in a thoroughly folkloristic setting. Prickly pear cacti set the scene as Sicily’s heritage was transformed into high fashion.
The concept behind the collection is summer in Sicily: the garments are destructured; yet maintain that high octane glamour, we all love about Dolce&Gabbana. The concept of holiday and holiday dressing is breathed through the collection, and reached a Milanese audience who missed the days spent by the beach. Sicily is the other leg of the tripod: from visual prints representing Moorish vases or the highly decorated wheels of traditional Sicilian carts made up colourful prints which epitomize summer, and the tastes and traditions of Sicily.
Well,
now onto the fashion: the silhouettes take on a different proportion this
season. Departing, almost completely from their much loved body cons, (the
Dolce&Gabbana has been experimenting with different shapes for a couple of
seasons now), the silhouettes are either top heavy or bottom heavy, developing
in billowing short sleeves with exaggerated shoulders and slight trumpet shaped
midi skirts or beautifully feather light full skirts which retain that vintage
feel that has been accompanying the collections this season.
Sicily
is an island full of heritage and a colourful and varied history. The visual
prints for SS13 portray the Pupi- traditional marionettes clad in chivalric
armour and iconic goatee, and the famous Caltagirone vases shaped in the forms
of Moorish heads with turban and all. These prints are characteristically mixed
and matched in an eye-popping mix of colour and humour.
Sun,
sea and Sicily. This is exactly where Dolce&Gabbana have drawn inspiration
from for their stripes. Looking and the traditional umbrellas and sun loungers,
the thick horizontal stripes emphasize the new silhouettes; the full skirts,
trumpets and a lines. The stripes, both textured and block colour are printed on
silk organza, cotton brocade and simple cotton.
Dolce&Gabbana
is synonymous with crafts and glamour- so beautifully embroidered pieces could
not go amiss. Drawing inspiration from the Sicilian cart, raffia dresses are
embroidered with colourful thread and pompoms. In reference to Sicilian baroque,
elaborate beading and coral embroidery contrast with the raffia, relative poor
fabric used.
Innovative
and traditional, raffia and hessian sacking is printed with post card like
images. The silhouettes are emphasized by the rigidity of the fabric and
therefore more extreme.
Tradition
and innovation live happily within Dolce&Gabbana and in this case, organza
received a new treatment. Feather light fabrics of organza net set on tulle are
fashioned into midi skirts, dresses and very commercial tunic coats.
Wicker
takes on a new form and meaning in this collection. Drawing inspiration from the
chairs, wicker busters are worn as belts over organza net or underneath it to
create beautifully voluminous gowns.
The
accessories are where the traditions and colours of Sicily come alive: wicker
platforms or low square heels. Embroidered raffia Dolce Bags and bucket bags
with flowers or pompoms and Moorish printed wedges.
Earrings
take on new dimensions: bigger is better. Raffia, Moorish heads and Sicilian
Cart imagery further embellish the models. The silk foulard, worn on the head
like a hair band mixed that peasant look with holiday chic.
A
plethora of cute vintage style bathing suits- printed, striped, bikinis, one
pieces, even tankinies. Culottes, mini ruffled skirts and oversize bras finished
the show in a joyous vintage beach mood.
Styled by: Yuri Ahn
Written by: Valentina Zannoni
Credits: Dolce&Gabbana
Photo credits: Luca Cannoniere and Michele Morosi



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