To the sound of Domenico Modugno’s “Meraviglioso” contemporary sun kissed maidens in vintage style dresses waltzed down the catwalk in a thoroughly folkloristic setting. Prickly pear cacti set the scene as Sicily’s heritage was transformed into high fashion.
The concept behind the collection is summer in Sicily: the garments are destructured; yet maintain that high octane glamour, we all love about Dolce&Gabbana. The concept of holiday and holiday dressing is breathed through the collection, and reached a Milanese audience who missed the days spent by the beach. Sicily is the other leg of the tripod: from visual prints representing Moorish vases or the highly decorated wheels of traditional Sicilian carts made up colourful prints which epitomize summer, and the tastes and traditions of Sicily.
Well, now onto the fashion: the silhouettes take on a different proportion this season. Departing, almost completely from their much loved body cons, (the Dolce&Gabbana has been experimenting with different shapes for a couple of seasons now), the silhouettes are either top heavy or bottom heavy, developing in billowing short sleeves with exaggerated shoulders and slight trumpet shaped midi skirts or beautifully feather light full skirts which retain that vintage feel that has been accompanying the collections this season.
Sicily is an island full of heritage and a colourful and varied history. The visual prints for SS13 portray the Pupi- traditional marionettes clad in chivalric armour and iconic goatee, and the famous Caltagirone vases shaped in the forms of Moorish heads with turban and all. These prints are characteristically mixed and matched in an eye-popping mix of colour and humour.
Sun, sea and Sicily. This is exactly where Dolce&Gabbana have drawn inspiration from for their stripes. Looking and the traditional umbrellas and sun loungers, the thick horizontal stripes emphasize the new silhouettes; the full skirts, trumpets and a lines. The stripes, both textured and block colour are printed on silk organza, cotton brocade and simple cotton.
Dolce&Gabbana is synonymous with crafts and glamour- so beautifully embroidered pieces could not go amiss. Drawing inspiration from the Sicilian cart, raffia dresses are embroidered with colourful thread and pompoms. In reference to Sicilian baroque, elaborate beading and coral embroidery contrast with the raffia, relative poor fabric used.
Innovative and traditional, raffia and hessian sacking is printed with post card like images. The silhouettes are emphasized by the rigidity of the fabric and therefore more extreme.
Tradition and innovation live happily within Dolce&Gabbana and in this case, organza received a new treatment. Feather light fabrics of organza net set on tulle are fashioned into midi skirts, dresses and very commercial tunic coats.
Wicker takes on a new form and meaning in this collection. Drawing inspiration from the chairs, wicker busters are worn as belts over organza net or underneath it to create beautifully voluminous gowns.
The accessories are where the traditions and colours of Sicily come alive: wicker platforms or low square heels. Embroidered raffia Dolce Bags and bucket bags with flowers or pompoms and Moorish printed wedges.
Earrings take on new dimensions: bigger is better. Raffia, Moorish heads and Sicilian Cart imagery further embellish the models. The silk foulard, worn on the head like a hair band mixed that peasant look with holiday chic.
A plethora of cute vintage style bathing suits- printed, striped, bikinis, one pieces, even tankinies. Culottes, mini ruffled skirts and oversize bras finished the show in a joyous vintage beach mood.
Styled by: Yuri Ahn
Written by: Valentina Zannoni
Photo credits: Luca Cannoniere and Michele Morosi