This season its all about the coat. Classic, exquisitely embroidered or in the form of a cape- the coat is the item around which the Dolce&Gabbana FW13 world goes round.
The baroque inspired collection was a real coupe de theatre. The setting was reminiscent of the grand ballrooms of the past, and the models looked like princes in this setting. The mood was vintage, but the craftsmanship was bang up to date.
Jackets are where tailoring truly comes to life. For FW13, Dolce&Gabbana have stripped the jacket and reconstructed it in its original, yet contemporary form. Details like piping and the fabrics are firmly set in the traditional, yet the outer form is very contemporary. The new seam at the waist serves to emphasize the svelte silhouette of the wearer, while the unlined interior gives movement to the fabric. The jacket is no longer an armour, it’s a sensual piece of clothing. The sensuality of the jacket is also expressed in the materials, brocades, chiffon and lace. The surprise for FW13 is the neck, it’s a masterful mix of Nehru neckline with traditional lapels.
The coat is the linchpin of the FW13 Dolce&Gabbana menswear collection. It is interpreted as a cape- think Victorian outerwear, or as a traditional double-breasted tailored masterpiece. Designed in a wide variety of lengths, the coat is a real protagonist. Lined in fur or with contrasting lapels, the coat maintains its classic silhouette with modern twists in the details.
The coat was treated like a real star in this collection. Clad in gold, it took centre stage. Hand embroidered baroque designs graced this linchpin of men’s sartorial tradition. To give the gold a more antiquated look, the embroidery was washed and treated for a vintage feel. The coat is also emblematic of the brand’s love for mix and matching.
The smoking jacket is decadent and aristocratic. The idea of a man relaxing in the most sumptuous of fabrics is a true statement of nobility. Here, velvets, lace and silk twill are all used at their best. In particular, there are a few rigorously tailored jackets made of satin, with lace overlay and finally embroidered. A true luxury for an evening in. That, is the Dolce&Gabbana man.
In a fall winter collection knitwear cannot go a amiss. A few choice pieces, in the darkest anthracite grey give the collection a softer texture. A top to bottom cable knit “suit” softens the rigorouls lines of the collection. While for a true contrast, the jumpers are also embroidered with handcrafted baroque shapes in gold thread.
Gold thread was used aplenty in the FW13 collection. Metres of this uber precious material where hand sown on blazers, coats, hats, and even socks. The baroque designs, worthy of hand crafted Venetian mirrors are a truly mouth-watering. For a more dandy inspired look, these embroideries are on velvet. The rounded hem and traditional Austrian knots and cuff braids to hone in on the military references. A collection worthy of the emperor Napoleon himself.
The finale reiterates the most important item in the collection: the coat. Designed in a way that is both rigorously sartorial and bang up to date, the coat is the key item of FW13. A less rigorous and traditionally irreverent addition to the collection, and a romantic reference to the 18th century dandy look is the soft, slightly floppy bow tie.
Styled by: Yuri Ahn
Written by: Valentina Zannoni
photo credits: Luca Cannonieri Michele Morosi