Flowing skirts, tiny waists, Macramè with irreverent PVC details and crystal embellished bodysuits were the central pieces from a Dolce&Gabbana ss12 collection which looked back at the 1950s with as its inspiration the iconic Italian beauty and the population’s joie de vivre.
The atmosphere at today’s show was reminiscent of another era- Italy in the 1950s, when communities came together in brightly decorated village piazzas to eat, drink, dance and generally be merry.
Think Sophia Lauren and Vittorio De Sica in the iconic 1955 movie Pane, Amore e… (Scandal in Sorrento). Remember the central scenes of the film with the mambo, the village fete, the beautiful, the timeless Sophia Loren, who in the movie was the physical representation of the fecundity and rebirth of a country devastated by the regime and subsequent war.
Each element of these traditional village feasts has been deconstructed by Dolce&Gabbana and reinvented in some sort of eat-couture. First come the raw materials- fresh, juicy, plump tomatoes and other vegetables typical of Italian agriculture. Dresses, shorts and jackets printed with vegetable remind us of those market stalls overflowing with fresh produce synonymous with food shopping experience in italy. The painterly prints, of aubergines, tomatoes, chillies and onions depicted by masterful brush strokes look good enough to eat.
It’s in the silhouettes that the 1950s references really come into their own. The clinched waists, worthy of Sophia Loren and Gina Lollobrigida, flowing skirts and boxy, cropped jackets over culottes or straight midi length skirts epitomise the fashion of the era. Crisp cotton, flowing plissé organza, thick brocade or traditional macramé define the shapes and the inspiration of the collection.
The real surprise of the collection is the PVC. The design duo took the garish, and somewhat cheap PVC tablecloths and weaved plastic chairs found in traditional trattorie and, in keeping with their signature lighter take on fashion and irreverent nature, they transformed the concept into jaw dropping details and must have accessories.
After examining the food and furniture at these traditional Italian country fetes, Dolce&Gabbana turned their attention to the decorative elements. Bright and colourful lights, as well as exciting fireworks motifs were stitched in crystals as if, by magic, they had dropped onto the organza dresses. A final coup de thèatre and a hint of magic to allow the international fashion scene to participate in a traditional Italian custom.
Eat your greens. We’ve been told that eating five portions of fruits or vegetables a day are good for your health, and for SS12 Dolce&Gabbana have provided an elixir for your fashion health too with these vegetable prints.
The new mix and match for 2012, macramé and vegetable print.
A Dolce&Gabbana staple, macramé, revisited for ss12 in neutrals and pastel colours.
Taken from the catering sphere, such as plastic chairs and tablecloths, PVC makes a statement in this season’s collection. Wear it either head to toe or just as a flower detail.
Macramè, brocades, chiffon and cotton, all rigorously black. These items are at the centre of the collection, referencing, in its purest form that Italian understated elegance from decades gone by.
Organza dresses in neutral beige and black are set alight by multi coloured crystals which are evocative of fireworks lighting up the night’s sky.
Referencing the eras where Miss Italia launched the likes of Sophia Lauren and Lucia Bosé, the corset, a fanciful crystal embellished one at that, was at the centre of the show’s finale.
Made like the interweaved PVC chairs the new bags for SS12 are mouth-wateringly fun. Bright hues of blue and red, as well as glittering gold transform the basic PVC weave into a glamorous accessory.
Italians love pasta, and the world loves Italian pasta. Why not show your allegiance to one of Italy’s biggest exports by donning pasta bows or tortiglioni as an earring? Gold chains, Madonne and vegetables lift the collection’s serious cultural references, giving the mood a lighthearted twist.
Watch the Dolce&Gabbana Women's SS12 Video Must Have here:
Styled by: Yuri Ahn
Written by: Valentina Zannoni