The Fall Winter 2013 collection is very much centred n the gentleman, the old world gentleman to be exact. Many of the clothes have worn edges, almost rough, as though they’ve been passed down from generation to generation. In a collection which rekindles the love we hold for the past, and its fashion, tailoring is of course central to the collection. In terms of tailoring, nothing illustrates its art and beauty as much as the blazer.
The workmanship, design and pure engineering that goes into making a blazer in accordance to sartorial traditions may be lost on the modern man, but in the past, every gentleman client knew exactly what entailed making his suits, and how he wanted them. In an effort to revisit these traditions, and perhaps to educate through experience the modern client, the Dolce&Gabbana FW13 collection is based on intricate tailoring and exquisite details.
There are many things that make the difference in a tailored blazer, the piping, the lining, the finish, the pockets and of course the lapels. In FW13, Dolce&Gabbana have done away with the collar, and produced a novel blazer with just lapels at the font. The idea, was to make the blazer look as tough it had just been taken out from a great grandfather’s trunk and that the collar, being ruined, was just ripped off.
The period of inspiration for many items in the collection is mid 19th century, Victorian, but Italian. Historically, the gender divide was strong, but not in terms of fabric. Chiffons, organzas and georgette silks were as common in menswear as they are today in womenswear. The Fall Winter collection picks up on these cultural shifts, and many elegant blazers, like this velvet ones, have lapels and pocket flaps overlaid with precious fabrics, as well as piping.
A classic single-breasted blazer is always a winner- whether it’s contemporary or inspired by the olden days. In an effort to revisit classic elegance, the pin stripe, the heavy but slim one, is right back where it should be, on the runway and soon in our wardrobes. To take the look back to the 19th century, in a way, opt for a three-piece suit.
For a more modern incarnation of the double-breasted blazer, opt for a figure skimming shorter style. It’s light, deconstructed and easy to wear. The worn details like the raw trim edges and vintage style buttons make this blazer look right at home in a history referencing collection.
When looking at vintage style tailoring, accessories can finalize the outfit and bring home the look. Bowties: floppy, made of printed silk jacquard and with fringe trim are the must have collar ornament to accentuate all those beautiful, studied details. Shoes also figure as important items to finish off the look. There are no items in the collection that have not been stone-washed, waxed, scuffed, everything looks worn and authentic. The new shape, with an elongated point with rounded edges is also pertinent to the fashion of the times. Push buttons made to resemble spats hone in on the 18th century gentleman’s accessory.
Styled by: Yuri Ahn
Written by: Valentina Zannoni