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Weightless Tailoring

Posted Jan 26, 2011

Primarily jackets. The trend of the - please come soon - season is about flaunting the lightest fabric, and not only. Designers were in the SS11 zone when they decided to play some tailoring tricks.

The newest interpretation of a man's wardrobe. Tailoring is indeed synonym of intelligence, there is something absolute and scientific about it. In the English language, you most often define the "Tailor Shop" as a place for men's fitted suits, a woman is either thought of as capable of making her own clothes, or too rich to bother, hence the use of the more "common" word seamstress. A difference not to undergo lightly. If the English language is famous for having a word to describe in detail almost anything - from emotions to actual facts - it also gives the right emphasis to a word's phonetics and structure. T as in tailor, makes as think of a man's figure on which one should fit the clothes. What happens when instead of "fitting", the trend becomes: deconstructing? Is there an ingenious way of valorizing a man's silhouette by diminishing the shape, the weight, and the structure of the ensemble? As in all scientific research, all mathematical formulas must reach an answer, no matter how tailored this one should  to be.

 

Jackets like shirts: this is of the outmost importance, deconstructed, without lining. Underline without lining. Relax mood, summery and carefree. Bathing under the heat, hidden by the rocks, svelte and brisk.

The direction: open. Fabrics fluctuate over slimming trousers. No matter how serious the look, the atmosphere is fresh.

Layers, drapes, long overcoats that take different shapes and colours, keeping in mind that if you are covering up, you must be thin lay underneath, or on the cut.

Boxy cuts, the shapes are rigorous, if you are buttoning your jacket, remember that it still needs to breathe. Linear, light, with tailoring details that do the trick and summer-must fabrics: linen, silk, and cotton.

Styled by Yuri Ahn.

Text by Acelya Yonac

Source: Dolce&Gabbana

Image credits:Luca Cannonieri and Michele Morosi

                    Dennis Valle 

 

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