Master of Style: Colin McDowell on Italian Fashion

Swide spoke exclusively to the iconic fashion writer about this summer's must see fashion exhibition and his love of Italian style.

Armani AW 2001 Peter Lindbergh

Colin McDowell is one of the fashion industry’s most respected commentators. He has written numerous books and was chief fashion writer for the Sunday Times Style for 15 years. His commitment to the fashion world has gone as far as setting up Fashion Fringe in conjunction with IMG in order to provide a platform for deserving emerging fashion talent.

Swide was lucky enough to talk to Colin about his latest project, Masters of Style, an exhibition at London’s Somerset House that celebrates Italian fashion on the year of the 150th anniversary of the country’s unification.

Dolce&Gabbana SS2011 Steven Klein

The exhibition comprises iconic images from advertisement campaigns, personal stories, reflections and anecdotes of six of Italy’s most influential labels- Dolce&Gabbana, Prada, Giorgio Armani, Ferragamo, Gucci and Missoni. McDowell explains that the reason behind his choice of medium was a personal one: “I have always admired photography, and am fascinated by the designer images created for advertising. I decided that would be a unique look at Italian fashion that could include various fashion houses to show the full spectrum of Italy as one of the great fashion nations of the world.”

Gucci, SS1991, photographer Lance Stadler

McDowell is a connoisseur of Italian fashion as he worked as a designer himself in Italy with Roman couturier Pino Lancetti for 10. It was a start of a great love: “It was the seventies and Italian ready-to-wear was just beginning to make a name for itself. To me it was a wonderfully fresh and original kind of fashion celebrating the joy of being alive, young and beautiful - and, of course, Italian. And that movement has evolve into a recognisable and very desirable fashion that is revered and bought all over the globe.”

Armani SS1990 Aldo Fallai

But what is it about Italian fashion that makes it so unique and lends it such timeless elegance? McDowell believes that “the confidence and the style” of Italian fashion comes from the creative culture of “the nation that gave the world modern architecture and painting - not to mention cooking.” This cultural aesthetic is perhaps why, most importantly, “No matter how exuberant Italian designers are, they never forget the importance of line, quality and truth to material.”

Prada SS1997 Glen Luchford

The many years McDowell has spent in the industry, on either side of the catwalk has given him a perspective that is inimitable. He has also been witness to the lifecycle of many fashion houses, not least Dolce&Gabbana. McDowell has seen the label grow from an embryonic stage:

“Right from the beginning - and I was present at their second show, taken there by Beppe Modenese, who said to me, ' I want to show you two young men who I know will go very far' - their work reflected their culture - films like La Terra Trema, Roma Citta Aperta, and actresses of the sublime quality of Anna Magnani - regions like Sicily and its unique culture and approach to all aspects of life - and now they have come up to date with their love of football as the people's own game and the masculine elegance it personifies.” Crucially, what perhaps makes Dolce&Gabbana one of the greats of Italian fashion is that they “dress both men and women with equal success and can go from the classic to rock and roll with total confidence and assurance.”

Missoni SS2003, photographer Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott

And what about the future of Italian fashion? McDowell assures every lover of a well-cut suit; “good Italian designers will always be part of international fashion and be needed by it. Every Italian design label has its own philosophy and aesthetic and that is why they are all so successful.”

You can visit the exhibition at the below address:

Masters of Style: Celebrating the Stories Behind Italian Fashion is on at Somerset House from July 1 - August 14. Embankment Galleries, Strand, London, WC2R 1LA.