Following this winter happening in the Milan SPIGA2 store, the Italian fashion house has decided to invite some more talented emerging designers for the hot season to come.
Confirmed ones such as MSGM, Lamberto Petri or Gail Sorronda to new comers especially in menswear such as Komakino, Dolce&Gabbana has made a great selection of unique and remarkable works of fashion to mix and match with your beloved Sicilian signature pieces.
Araks Yeramyan - www.araks.com
"Effortlessly beautiful" summarises Araks Yeramyan’s take on fashion. From her learning years with Marc Jacobs and her experience at J.Crew she has framed her style and has taken with her some business management lessons. Her 2011 spring summer collection is very light and fresh, true to her lingerie background and love for soft and delicate natural fabrics, her designs are easy to wear. A cool play with transparent fabrics toned in warm orange and paired with white or black, in a word a proposal to look into when refreshing one’s wardrobe.
Have you heard the sound of a buzz? For this season it says: BZZ for Davide Bazzerla. Surely, it is a deserved claim for fame that spells in 3 and evokes, art-fashion- culture. Based in Berlin and Venice, no wonder that the blend is precious and unique: think couture cuts made out of raw and rough fabrics. A deconstructed appeal that has a real tailored signature. To try, to personalize and to pull off.
commuun - www.commuun.com
An organic collaboration between Iku Furudate and Kaito Hori for a global approach. Vertical and horizontal lines that are expressed by means of colours, cuts and appliqués. You can read a look like a book, a lifestyle that takes you beyond the trends of one season. Community, communication and communion, to wear in white with splashes of bold colours this summer.
Graffiti inspired, the cooperativedesigns gang has decided that we will play with stripes and funky prints. All on white, like a plain canvas that has inspired Annalisa Dunn and Dorothee Hagemann to break it and create a mosaic effect. For the colour fans it is a ready to mix and match in total looks.
Daniel Vosovic - www.danielvosovicny.com
Noticed during the second season of Project Runway, Daniel Vosovic has definitely confirmed his aesthetic sense and design talent since then. His spring summer 2011 fashion tale highlights drapés and layers of mixed fabrics. From a tear, emerges a garment, Daniel’s innovative view has the “finesse” of a poem and the lightness of a whisper.
Elisa Palomino - http://elisapalomino.com/
A flower haven, where lightness and freshness enchant. Close your eyes and enter Elisa Palomino’s SS11 dream. Blooming you surely will in floor skimming rosary dresses. Pretty innocence that has not lost itself and shows some strength with deep warm colours drawn on dark backgrounds. No rules for the hemline, but a statement is to be made on top of you head. Elisa’s dresses require a milliner for best friend.
Erkan Coruh - www.erkancoruh.com
Controversial and written mainly in black & white, Erkan’s new story reveals feminine curves while hiding the subject. A genuine take on the Chador (traditional Iranian dress) that has been shortened quite a lot. Is a women only unveiled by an uncovered face? Radical beauty. Erkan Coruh crosses the bridge between Islam and feminine beauty. An ode to womanhood?
Wide shapes, black white and electric blue these are the characteristics of Avelon’ SS11 vision. A boy friend jacket worn like a dress, a jumpsuit to find yourself a perfect playmate. A bit punk, a lot loose but very cool. These fashion pieces are instant updates to any so called "on-the-go" wardrobe.
Felder Felder - www.felderfelder.com
Born to be alive, the twins have decided to take their muse on a wild journey. Inspired by the free spirit of the likes of Jim Morrison, the colour palette is rocky black punctuated by soft leathers and precious silk chiffons. A duality between hard and soft constantly explored by the 2 designers, and is once again illustrated with architectural cuts, metallic spreads and hologram inspired prints. A true vision of romantic wildness for a pretty summery season to come.
Gail Sorronda - gailsorronda.portableshops.com
Gail Sorronda’s Murmur SS11 collection surprises with reversed proportions, oversized sleeves reinterpreted in bubble calves, black tulle underskirts over the classic “ white shirt dress” and diaphanous volumes that reveal the designers sensitivity to contrasts. A black & white summer fashion album that shows a modern take-on power dressing.
GIRLS FROM OMSK - www.girlsfromomsk.be
For SS11 GIRLS FROM OMSK have gone home. After having celebrated Paris this winter, the creative duo looked back on their roots or original inspirations. A door open to the Soviet culture, an original interpretation of Russian fashion trademarks such as army uniforms are to be found in a collection that should keep us cool in the Siberian summer.
Heather Williams - www.hwilliamsdesign.com
At the end it all comes down to the shoes, no? So what about dressing our beloved feet with astonishing heels and multiple straps. Architectural steps that should lead us in some cool haven if not wonderland. One name, Heather Williams, to be next summer’s gentle-women on the stand. Couture booties for daily use: signed off.
Kinder Aggugini - http://www.aggugini.com/
Getting his steam from people surrounding him, Kinder’s collection are an insight to the movies and images of his mind. A super real vision, that is much more inspiring than the raw reality that we see. Even if he draws and gets his moods from memories, the cuts are nevertheless a signature of a Savile Row –trained couturier. A master of proportions, you will fall head over toes for the light summery dresses perfectly matched with strict tied up jackets.
Ready made for a restless use. When preppy meets minimalist, you get a college sophisticated look that says “oh boy!”. The man imagined by Komakino is someone who suddenly becomes aware of the society and its features and is exploring the tensions between individuality and authority. Sharp tailoring recalling tribe codes for a very personal approach: wear the clothes as you wish and express yourself with globally understood lines.
Laura Jane - www.laurajlondon.com
Sweet like a lollipop, Laura Jane’s SS11 shoe collection is to adore and adorn. Flower embroidered booties or strap sandals to celebratel one of the most sensual parts of a woman’s body. It is a claim for high glamour to be sung from breakfast to midnight. So walk, dance, forget your Mary Jane and get your Laura Jane.
Marc Philippe Coudeyre - www.mpcoudeyre.com
Named Koi, Marc Philippe Coudeyre’s SS11 collection showcases a woman on the run to reach her goal. The Japanese legend has it that the Koi (carp) will be transformed into a dragon once reached the falls at a point called Dragon Gate on the Yellow river. Will we bloom into pretty women when come the first rays of sun? Let the clothes talk and slip in Marc Philippe, light blouse frocks pointed with touches of structures to recall that beauty requires precision.
Martin Grant - www.martingrantparis.com
Welcome to the elegant lady-like dress emporium. Timeless and off -beat, Martin got us a ticket to strong colours and graphic lines. Frocks for hot daily occasions as well as cool evening wear, chic and pretty. Some neon touches add a casual funky appeal to the overall collection. A chic summer selection that promises to fly off the rags.
MSGM - msgm.it
“Never Look Back. It’s All Ahead”’ following the brands’ motto, the SS11 collection proves to be innovative with a distinctive mix of fabrics and inspirations. Cropped “Chanel” inspired jackets on mini sleek dresses, the fun lies in the prints: graphic lines intertwined with zigzags to create an effect of organised chaos. Indeed the looks are very much finished but not “too done” for immediate consumption.
Napsugar Von Bittera - napsugardesign.com
The folk influence has gone wiser this season, cream day dressing with details that recall traditional barbarian motifs. Still very cutting edge, the defined cuts and sewing details confirm the prêt-a-couture approach of the designer. Her concept is very unique as shown by her clothing designs, deep diving neck lines or folded décolletés, it is very feminine so very natural.
Poustovit - poustovit.ua
Romance your summer with Lilia Poustovit that knows perfectly how to mix her slave roots and traditions to modern trends. Natural looks coloured in clay, various greys and creams. Mix folk prints on light silk chiffon. It is fresh and original. A perfect pick to stand out in an easy smart way.
Christian Blanken - www.christianblanken.co.uk
True to himself, Christian Blanken pictures our spring-summer in black and white. Encapsulated figures in glossy mother-of-pearl beige tones or black framed in geometric cuts for a very genuine take on femininity. Contrast is key and welcomes women to review their idea of power dressing. Surely not a classic workday suit, a pick from Christian Blanken’s rag will make a statement and become a wardrobe staple.
rosso rame - www.rossorame.com
Bruno Simeone, Italian designer behind rossorame has imagined a raw earthy inspired collection. The complexity of nature and rich mineral combinations are translated on fabrics such as organza, silk and tulle. It is heavy work to achieve an incredible lightness: dresses that float in the air or fitted pencil skirt celebrating the female body to shoot and rock the rocks.
Umit Benan - umitbenan.com
Man or woman? Who steels from whose closet? To Umit Benan, masculinity and femininity have to blend, his SS11 proves him to be right. A man that for once does not need a stiff and sharp structure to showcase his male attributes. The looseness and coolness of these happy easy looks make Mr. irresistible as much as appealing to bring out.
Yigal Azrouel - www.yigal-azrouel.com
"Dancing in the air...", as the song goes, follow master Yoga Azrouel in his quest for pure simple elegance. The creamy-off white, blush and oyster tones compose a spring palette that reinforces the subtle feeling of precious and delicate fabric in the likes of georgette or crepe. It seems obvious that nothing should get into your step or you dance apart from il Signore Yigal.
When NY meets LA, Rozae Nichols plus Stella Ishiis = Ian, a fashion brand that takes the challenge to revisit classics. Think innovative fabrics, see-through layered games, easy cuts; everything you have dreamed of or will dream to lock in your closet.
Peter Jensen - peterjensen.co.uk
Peter Jensen, Danish born and UK based designer, continues this season to delight us with a joyful collection. A sporty pair of socks that he plays with on teenage attires: not only reserved to the under twenties. A breath of fresh air, a sign of trends to come, what is sure is that fashion is serious but should not be taken too seriously. Play with it and express yourself.
Lamberto Petri - www.lamaisonducouturier.com
Ultimate simplicty can only be achieved by a perfect tailor, la maison du couturier has its own: Lamberto Petri. Our master has stacked up a holiday wardrobe for a superb and strong woman that is nevertheless after a summer romance. Loose it up, slip into some silk chiffon rolled together by Lamberto and carefully thought to bring out your sensuality. Pretty is natural and very couture.
Il Sistema Degli Oggetti - www.ilsistemadeglioggetti.it
Garments conceived as furniture pieces meant to be mobile, volatile and flexible. A very Milanese approach and a tribute to the city’s two claims for fame: design and fashion. No need of a user guide the shapes and drapés speak for themselves.
Daniele Carlotta - www.danielecarlotta.com
Daniele is a young passionate Sicilian man who at a very early age developed an interest in making clothing. His spring summer 2011 collection is themed around “perfumes and make-up”, garments cut and matched like ornaments. Think Russian dolls, each layer of fabric is a concealer and a revealer of the woman who is wearing it. The essence of the elixir becomes tangible thanks to the embellishment and fashion translation of Daniele. His sartorial gift and strong identity set him among the big players in the emerging designer game.
Fani Xenophontos - www.fanixenophontos.net
Awarded by Madame Figaro as “Best Designer of the Year 2010”, Fani Xenophontos surely have some rights to claim her fame. Originally from Cyprus, she has broadened her knowledge and developed her talent in Paris and London. A mix experience that explains her taste for strong cuts and fine tailoring as well as her focus on innovative fabrics. A new creative wave to catch.
Sophie Theallet - www.sophietheallet.com
Sophie Theallet sent Frida Kahlo inspired women wearing Latina dresses down the catwalk. For spring summer 2011 the key principle is chic nonchalance so think floating silhouettes in light frocks and peasant blouses. Simple but straightforward shapes inspired by Luis Barragàn’s minimalist architecture contrast with bold colours and bohemian prints. Sharp like a French accent, Sophie’s constructed coolness is her confirmed signature. A genuine blend of femininity, ease and sensuality controlled by a great sartorial know-how.
Fausto Puglisi - www.faustopuglisi.com
Fausto Puglisi sees the summer in colours with splashes of neon pink, pop purple or grass green. It is a fashion animation that means T-shirt dresses to wear over and over again with glam rock studded perfectos, gladiator kilts or A-line skirts. A remarkable use of the finest Italian crafts to achieve sparkling looks, no show-off here but shout-about. This collection is dedicated to Dolce&Gabbana as a thank you for their support and for helping Fausto to make it happen for him and for us.
Caterina Gatta - www.caterinagatta.it
Welcome to the Neo Vintage era with Caterina Gatta who has initiated a mini revolution with her genuine approach to garments from the old days. The past is in the fabric, the future in the cuts. Caterina sources vintage fabrics and makes one of kind clothing. A degree in fashion and costume sciences from Sapienza University in Rome explains her knowledge and passion for unique and historical materials taken from clothes tagged with fashion big names in the likes of Gianni Versace, Yves Saint Laurent or Valentino. Her trademark could be summarised by clean silhouettes with a baroque twist.
Text by Delphine Hervieu.
Images by Yuri Ahn.